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3d printing purses, belts and other pliable fashion accessories.
by：Bestway
2019-10-28
Because I am a gentle fashion
Conscience woman, with my own design concept, can convert my design into real objects through simple 3D printing, this temptation can not be ignored.
So with the help of my college friends, I purchased and built a 3D printer kit.
It seems to be forever before I print something, and at the same time my friend reassured me that I can print \"anything\" I\'m not very happy.
I don\'t want gears, bots or toys.
I want fashion accessories!
Not just any accessories, I hope I can design and print and really use the feeling of high quality.
Maybe it will be sold one day! !
After trying several different plastics, I still find that nothing I print can be bent remotely, and I conclude that 3D printing does not apply at all to anything I imagine.
So the 3d printer did it behind the closet.
Long story short, a friend sent me a link and they printed a video with nylon.
It\'s like any other 3D printed video you see, except that at the end you\'ll see a nylon part that\'s easy to twist and bend.
I \'d love to give it a try.
He sent me my first 3D printed nylon sample and included me in his test program as a designer and nylon tester.
That was three months ago.
I have been printing wallets, clutch, belts, wallets, rings, bracelets, compact boxes, earrings, necklaces, you name it accessories because this stuff is very durable, i\'m thinking about the holy grail of accessories, shoes!
But I\'m not a good designer. yet.
Oh, did I mention that you can print out the flat plates on 2 or 3 floors and then iron them with an iron to form permanent seams and folds?
So since this 3D printing nylon is very new, I think there may be other people who want to print accessories or smooth, glossy and soft items that I want to show how to create some simple items, and how to print em in 3D.
I would like to explain the picture I uploaded as there are a lot of CAD screen photos.
I do this because some people may think it\'s hard to use 3D CAD, but that\'s not the case.
I only measure the time I absolutely have to measure and everything else is based on the guess of \"if it looks good, it looks good, I like it.
As a hint, there are three CAD commands for our quick designers only, allowing us to do anything. 1.
Boolean value-this is a fancy term for adding two parts to one part or subtracting one from the other. 2.
Fillet-another fancy term for placing soft rounded edges on a part. 3.
Cage Edit-another fancy term, but it\'s great.
Just like your basic part is made of jelly.
You just have to push or pull a point and the area around the point will follow. . . . like…jello!
This is what I use most because it allows me to push and pull the curve in the design and I undo it if I don\'t like it and try again.
After playing the cage command for an hour, I put it down and now I am very good at adding beautiful curves and processes to my design.
You\'ll notice that I designed it by adding a known section like a round hook (cylinder)
This is equal to lip gloss, and then I add and subtract other nails (cylinders), donuts (torus)
And square to make the part I want.
That\'s why I have CAD photos so others can see how easy it is.
Short instructions for 3D printing. 1.
Design parts in 3D CAD programs.
The part is then exported to the file as a \"part. stl”2.
Slice part of you-this is a separate applet or comes with your 3D printer. (
This is where you tell the 3D printer how to make the parts.
Number of dense, hollow, normal and exterior walls.
You can make your part just around or round or thick and you can add fill.
How sturdy the filling part is.
High filling means a lot of nylon is printed inside the part, so it won\'t be that soft or bent.
Some of the parts you do are hollow, like my wallet. )Load the “Part.
In the slicer program, it will output a file called \"Part.
Gcode \"or something like that (
Please see printer instructions). 3. The “Part.
Gcode \"is a file used by a 3D printer to make parts. 4.
Don\'t worry about all the technical issues.
The printer has sensors to prevent you from breaking it, so it becomes easier each time just keep trying.
I have done it hundreds of times now and I have done it for about 2 minutes.
It\'s really easier than it sounds.
Every part of my structure shows a complete attachment.
I will show you how I designed the lip gloss case, the compact replacement case, the simple ring, the bracelet, the simple credit card DL and the money bag, a fully available and soft belt, the last \"KD\" design is a shiny, silver-decorated soft wallet.
All the tools we need: 1 each 3D CAD program-free and low cost online, ask some technical friends.
I have the college student version I use.
Taul says Google has free Sketchup and free Sketchup in Autocad \"123D\" so check it out.
Each 3D printer can print 3mm round nylon 2 618 nylon per thread shaft from taulman3d.
Com-this is what I tested and used and it costs the same as normal 3D printing plastic. It is a natural color and there is actually no color but it looks when you print with it
You can see this in my photo.
1 soldering iron for every 20 to 40 watts with sharp \"clean\" tip1, each hobby knife to cut off loose thread 1 \"type 12\" per metal ruler-this measuring tool.
I am using a calipers I bought on ebay, they are not expensive and easy to measure.
You can use the meter ruler, but it will be more difficult to measure some items.
1 each flat metal surface-like the back of the cookie flakes 1 each eyelet curling tool-these are Hobby Shop 1 each small screw drive 1 each needle thread 1 each scissors 1 each gorilla.
You need a sticky glue.
A lot of glue will not stick to nylon.
Design of lip gloss shell. 1.
Find or buy lip gloss that you want to use.
Measure the diameter of lip gloss-the mine is 17 mm³.
Add a thread in 17mm = 17.
The 5mm thread is the nozzle size of the 3D printer. Mine is .
5mm-this is to make sure it prints out a larger opening for lip gloss. I add .
All openings and holes are 5mm. 4.
The gloss of the lips looks very high (
Estimated measurements are inserted here)…5. Make 17. Peg-6 High 5mm.
Make the round nails a little bigger, but a little shorter . . . . . . Looks like 24mm diameter . . . . . . Not too big. . 7.
Push the small bolt up and give the tube a bottom . . . . . .
Nothing. it just looks good. 8.
You need some shape so add round ribs.
Select Add face (
Donuts for the rest of us)
\"Make it a little bigger than the tube . . . . . . . . 10.
Copy and paste more . . . . . . Eye spacing . . . . . . 11.
Now . . . . . . Boolean \"add\" external peg and toruses . . . . . . So this is part of it.
Now, for the hole where the gloss disappears . . . . . . 13.
With Big peg. . . The boolean difference of 14 is small peg. Looky there….
Like I planned . . . . . . Export stl to thumb drive 15.
Now slice for 3D printer . . . . . . 16.
I hope it will shine.
So I dropped the temperature to 245. . . 17.
Set the layer height to bout. 3mm…. 18.
A perimeter and two physical layers . . . . . . ! 19. Slice to g-code file …20.
Set to print on PCB material (
Printed circuit boards with lots of small holes keep printing high or large parts flat-I bought mine in the Radio shed for about $3)21.
Load the gcode into the printer. And print …22.
After printing, carefully remove any loose nylon thread and trim it. 23.
Insert lip gloss . . . .
If it slips in easily, just wrap a little tape around it.
Use transparent gift tape as dark tape will show up.
Look at it now.
In less than 20 simple steps, we created a very simple \"off-the-top-of-our-
Head \"the idea of a beautiful part that really works.
Nylon feels much better than the plastic already on the lip gloss.
It really gets easier every time you design and print something.
I have done a lot of printing now, I don\'t pay attention to technology, only my design concept. Next….
A compact new part: old compact part with glass mirror
Some are easy to take apart, these are the best. Directions:1.
Use a small screwdriver to gently remove the color or powder tray from the compact.
These are usually made of cheap glue.
Take a moment to turn around the entire edge . . . . . .
When you pry a part up, slide the screwdriver to the center and pry it up from the center.
So you don\'t bend the tray. 2.
The mirror is now.
Now that the powder tray has come out, set the tap very warm and place the compact tap under the flowing warm water for about a minute . . . . . . . 3.
Try turning the mirror with your fingers.
It should also be fixed with cheap glue and should start spinning under hot water . . . . . . . 4.
When it starts spinning. . . .
Just keep it and try to pry it up with a hairpin or a thin plastic comb when it feels looser.
A screwdriver may break the mirror so don\'t use it. 5.
Measure the diameter of the mirror and powder tray.
58mm we call it 60. go to cad6.
I set the powder tray to round peg 60mm dia and make it above the height I need. 7.
I made a slightly larger round nail (
Okay, happy? ). 8.
This is my powder tray so I made about 6-7mm tall…. looks good! 9.
I put 60mm of the DingTalk in and gave myself a reserve price of 1mm. 10.
Then Boolean 60mm from the larger peg. .
The bottom of Clk is done! …. 11.
The diameter of the mirror is also 60mm.
The compact top will surround the bottom. 12.
The bottom is 68mm diameter.
So do a peg 68.
Diameter 5mm, about 20mm.
The mirror will be on top of the lid . . . . . . So make another 60mm and 20mm peg 14.
The lid will be a larger diameter to cover the powder tray . . . . . . So do a 73-
74mm dia peg, but to reach the height we need to achieve overall compact . . . . . . .
About 11mm.
We got 74mm, 68.
5mm and 60mm nails. . . 16.
Give 60mm space to 1mm at 74mm peg17.
From 60mm . . . . . . Boolean minus 74mm in clk and done18. Move the 68.
5mm give the mirror 1mm clearance from the powder tray, Boolean minus 68.
The distance is 5mm from the larger part. . Clk, clk, finished. . . . 19.
Now we have the top but it looks like a can of soup.
We need a soft edge! 20.
There is a \"fillet\" command in most 3D CAD programs . . . . . . .
It goes around the edges and gives a smooth look that will print into a smooth feel. 21.
Select \"fillet \". . . .
2mm on fillet size. 22.
Select the top edge and bypass it . . . . . . . . clk…. done…. . looks great….
Almost professional.
Almost . . . . . . Nylon gloss will finish it well. 23.
Now, don\'t forget to flip the top before exporting so it can print upside down!
Otherwise it will be a mess. 24. Export to stl. 25.
The slices are: 26. 1 perimeter27.
2 solid surfaces. 28.
We only need 25% filling. 29.
235C printing temperature. . . .
We need to shine . . . . . . 30
Print on the blue tape to get a soft and smooth top and bottom. 31.
I don\'t use retracement . . . . . . . .
It seems to take a few days to print anything with it. -
Shrinkage is a way to prevent the printer from leaving tiny excess threads in certain places.
With this nylon I found it only takes a second or two to cut them off with a hobby knife.
I think it looks better than taking it back. 32. Hit print! 33.
Carefully remove any loose threads from the print table. 34.
Add a small amount of glue to the mirror and powder tray and glue them in place.
Let\'s set it up for a few hours and you\'re done!
Adhesive Nylon: they told me that nylon wouldn\'t glue well and I found them right.
So when I glue it, I use a piece of sandpaper or an old nail buffer to make the glue point rough.
I found Gorilla Glue OK but you need something very sticky.
If I really need these parts, I will melt them together with a soldering iron.
Next is a simple ring. I have printed a few rings in plain plastic before, but after I wash my hands a few times, they all look dull.
I found this to be alcohol from the hand sanitizer we used in the bathroom.
Nylon is not affected by alcohol or a large amount of chemicals.
Start with a normal ring or short tube. Now….
This is a tip for K. D.
Let your 3D printer print it out.
It doesn\'t mean it can\'t do some tricks.
So, I\'m going to print a normal ring and then print a tiny captured silver ring by pressing the button that lets the 3D printer nozzle spit out hot nylon.
New parts: 1 nylon 3D printed ring each.
1 small silver ring each.
You may be able to find one on an old piece of jewelry and remove it with pliers.
Something about the diameter of the pencil eraser should be good. Directions:1.
Print a standard ringplain. 2.
Make the perimeter 10 so it can be printed in all circles for smoothing. 3. Set height to .
2mm for many solid layers. 4.
Set the temperature to 245c, shiny and strong. .
It only needs to be installed comfortably. 5.
3D printing the height you want . . . . . . I will print this about 6mm high and stop the printer. 6.
Next, lower the print table or raise the nozzle to give you space under the nozzle . . . . . . . about 5 inches. 7.
On my prusa I have a button that allows nylon or plastic to bleed out of the nozzle.
Kind of like toothpaste.
Push it and let nylon flow out of the nozzle for a few seconds. 8.
Set the silver ring on the ring as shown in the figure . . . . . . .
You have to hold this with a needle clamp because you will definitely burn yourself if you are not careful. 9.
Gently guide the ring with the ring to the tip of the nozzle and let the tip of the nozzle touch the nylon inside the ring.
The hot end begins to melt nylon. 10.
Press the button to remove more nylon from the nozzle while keeping the ring stable. 11.
When the new nylon flows out, it fills the ring and starts to overflow. 12.
Let the new nylon overflow the ring of about the same thickness, then slowly remove the ring. 13.
The new nylon can now make a shape (
I don\'t know what you call it)
This will keep the ring. 14.
Cut any thin line with a hobby knife, you . . . . . . done. . ! 15.
Flatten the edges with a hobby knife. . (
I haven\'t done this yet for the photo of this ring, so you can see the sharp edges. )
It looks stylish from the other side of the room.
The most important. . .
It matches the lip gloss shell and is compact in structure.
Please be very careful because the nozzle is super hot.
I always \"first\" put my finger on the nozzle flow button and move on my ring, because I don\'t want to move my eyes off the ring while holding something to find the button close to the hot nozzle.
Don\'t find the hard way!
You must read and follow all 3D printer and material security information.
I\'m not responsible if you hurt yourself.
The hot nozzle is twice the temperature of boiling water, so it will hurt you if you touch it.
Also I have long hair and should hang it around the printer moving parts.
The hole size of the bracelet is easy. . .
Just find the bracelet you already have and measure the size of the hole.
I know my size is 64mm.
So whatever we dream of, this is what we need.
We will make a tube or strap with a diameter of 64mm, so that the diameter of the outside is about 72mm, and then make it about 6mm high.
We will decorate it with some silver key chain rings and then we can add keys for the effect or small chain.
Hobby stores have a lot of items to add, so anything is possible from this starting point.
Parts: 6 silver rings or more on key rings . . . . . .
You have to put the key on the split type above it.
(Design a simple thick belt.
I am a 64mm person so I will make a 72mm hook to make it 6mm high. 1.
Now, I made a 64mm hook to make it 20mm high.
Put it in a larger peg and the Boolean value minus 64mm from 72mm, where I have a thick strap. 2.
Now we have to print 3 em. . 3. Export to stl…. 4.
Import the slicer program 5.
We want these skids to be as much as possible. . . 8 Perimeters….
This will make it all circles7.
0 solid layers 8. 0% fill….
This will make it all circles9. . 2mm height10. 245C11.
Print on blue tape and smooth surface. -
Blue tape is the blue painter tape you use when drawing around the doors and windows of the house.
The part you print will stick to the wax backing of the tape.
I just put a few on my PC board.
It falls off easily. 12.
Assembly-just twist on the key ring to capture the strap as shown.
A trick I used to pry open these keys --
The ring is defaced with staple food. (
Read this article online not long ago)13.
Add more jewelry. . .
Add some silver keys!
I don\'t mix colors with other keys.
Again, it matches our other accessories.
Simple credit card and DL holder tools: 1 for each scissors, 1 for each soldering iron, 1 for each metal rule, and 1 for each biscuit drawing direction: 1.
Print attachment stl. . .
It is part of 120mm x 100mm. 2.
Let it print 2 layers and stop printing.
It\'s about 8 layers so I can use it for other things. 3.
Most of the CC is 54mm by 86mm, so we will increase the width by 18mm on the thickness of several cards. 4.
Cut a piece of 104mm by 72 mm5.
Cut a piece of 72mm x 70 MM6.
As shown in the figure, place 2 pieces on top of each other. 7.
Use a steel ruler to set about 2mm of the space along the first long edge. 8.
Use a soldering iron to cut a 2mm line along the edge. 9.
Not only does this cut the edges, but it is also hot to seal the edges as permanent seams without tearing or separating.
I adjusted the soldering iron to about 80%.
You need to take your time and make sure the tip is in touch with the metal.
Sometimes the hot nylon leaves a small edge, so you can cut it off with a hobby knife.
Also, I don\'t know why, but there is always a dark coating on the tip, so carry a thick rag with you to wipe the tip.
You should wet the rag first. 10.
Repeat on the opposite long side. . . .
Then repeat along the bottom. That’s it.
Simple but working fine.
The first nylon belt I printed was better than I thought . . . . . . .
Very soft, but tough, thread with no wear or split.
I can easily make it a knot, but it doesn\'t stretch out at all . . . . . . Just give it some \"gifts\" is enough . . . . . . .
I did at least 12 or more.
Since I can simply die them in the exact color I need, I don\'t even have to go and buy one to match my outfit . . . . . . . .
I just bought some molds and 3D prints . . . . . . To save some money?
In hobby shops, the belt buckles of different sizes are about $1.
Almost free.
The price of nylon is the same as ABS and I can get at least 14 belts from the nylon thread shaft.
So, I\'m about 27 \"waist but wear 30 \"-32” belt.
A buckle and a nice outline tip increase by about 6 \", we are at 38\" or 970mm. So.
. . . . . . How can I print something so long on my prusa with a small print table. . ? …. A trick….
I print into a spiral on the edge of it . . . . . . !
Then, in order to level it off the spiral, I just leveled it!
Even taorman didn\'t know that ironing printed nylon was a trick!
Actually, I print two at a time. Here’s how. For a 1.
5 \"wide belt, not the surface of the 38\" long thin belt.
Think of a firm stick.
5 \"wide 38\" long \"deep \".
However, think of it as hollow and you will see that you use both sides of the stick as a strap and wrap it in a spiral shape.
We will print it out with a solid surface.
When it prints a layer every 38 \"long, the solid surface helps to keep it on the PCB printing table.
I won\'t let the print go to the end and print it out on all sides.
I stopped it before it printed the fourth (top)
Or when it reaches the width I want.
Then I remove the nylon and look like \"U\" shape from the end.
I then cut off the solid layer and left two 1000mm \"x1.
I\'m going to make it into a strap. . !
Then I just opened a hospital.
Iron a few times on it and flatten the spiral out.
Look at my belt standard CAD drawings.
This is a spiral about 1000mm long and 100mm high.
This is what I exported as an stl file.
Parts: 1 CAD file per (see attached)
One silver buckle each.
I bought these at the local hobby store or cut one off the old belt.
12 or more silver eyelets.
Note: Make sure how wide you want the belt to be as you want to stop printing before it gets wider to save time.
Make sure you have at least 20 feet nylon so you don\'t run out.
The Belt needs a lot of material according to the thickness. 1.
Export the stl file of the slicer program.
The slices are as follows: 3. 2 perimeters….
This is a belt 1mm thick.
It\'s right for me. 4.
1 Solid surface. . . .
This is just to keep the spiral in place when printing . . . . . . Because it is too long, it will shrink when it cools during printing, so print on the PCB to make sure that the first layer is almost touching the table.
I find that if my belt prints 12 layers or more without bending from the PCB table, then it prints normally. 5.
The fill amount of 0%, because it will be empty. height….
You need to be careful with this . . . . . . .
It takes a day to print. .
There may be small gaps as large as a few layers.
I use my nozzle diameter or. 25mm7. Temperature….
The printer will constantly spit out nylon because the incoming nylon will cool the heater, so we need to raise the temperature a little, even when it glows . . . . . . So 255-
It sounds too hot, but the nylon is wearing too fast and I don\'t think it\'s actually that hot. (
I\'m not optimistic about this, it seems like this from my experience). . 8.
Load to a 3D printer and \"print \". . . . . . This will take about 2-
Print for 3 hours.
It takes about 2 hours for my belt 1 to print. 9.
After printing, remove the spiral from the print table. 10.
Take the scissors and simply cut off the first layer.
It\'s very easy to follow the spine in the print layer to help you get straight cuts. 11.
Cut the end. 12.
Now you should have two long straps, each of which can be turned into one.
You should iron the spiral before adding the eyelet. 13.
Now is the time to buckle.
Measure about 80mm from one end. 14.
Use a soldering iron to poke a hole for the first hole eye. 15.
Curl in silver eyelets using the eyelet curl tool.
This is the hole eye of the needle. 16.
Keep in mind that the eyelet \"curl\" side is always inside the belt. 17.
Put the strap into the buckle and stick the buckle pin to the hole.
You can now fold back the remaining nylon. 18.
Keep the folds in place and poke two holes for the first fixed hole eye. 19.
The first two fixed holes are installed.
Measuring about 12mm, two more fixed holes are installed. 20.
These four eyelets will keep the buckle away from anywhere! 21.
Now wrap your belt around your bare waist and don\'t relax.
Where the tip overlaps the needle is the first central eyelet.
Mark and install (
Poke with a soldering iron, then curl with a silver hole). 22.
Now, at 24mm steps, make 8 marks in the direction of the belt tip.
Install All Eight eyelets. 23.
Put on your final gear.
Then Wear your belt and tighten it according to your taste.
You should still have two, three or more eyelets.
You want more than 2 holes in the needle to face the tip. 24.
Cut the tip flat, leaving two long eyelets.
Round the tip with scissors. 25. See !
You just made a $25 or more belt and it looks and feels great! 26.
Dye it if you want the color.
Go to taulman3d.
View the color direction.
If you do want the color, you should dye it before adding the eyelet and the clasp.
You should also iron it before you color it.
Also, it may stretch the width slightly over time.
Flatten it and iron it again.
Since I printed it in a 1mm thick place, it is not too hard yet, not too soft and it will drooping or stretching.
I also made long wallet straps with this painting.
Wallet Design simple wallet looks like a rectangular box with some soft curves.
So how do I add soft curves to the rectangular box? . ?
As I mentioned earlier, these 3D CAD programs have some really neat features and the ones I absolutely love are called \"cage editing \".
It\'s like your character is made of jelly.
You just have to push or pull a point and the area around this point will follow all the time.
The only rule you have to pay attention to is that you \"should\" only push and pull in the X or Y direction, because you will print the results in 3D.
You can modify the Z, but this makes the result of 3D printing very painful.
Or it\'s actually a mess. (
Just my experience)Simple design: 1.
I will make it 200mm long, 70mm wide and 110mm high . . . . . .
Small, but not small.
Make a rectangular box3.
Now add fish fillets to the high corners. 4. Now…. . cage edit….
Select the part, then select cage edit from the menu . . . . . . 5.
I only know how my CAD program works, but Mike and taul tell me that most other CAD programs can do the same . . . . . . . 6.
Pay attention to the control points around my smooth rectangle.
I can choose one or more, just push them over or stretch them and the wallet gets bigger or smaller in those places. 8.
Select the internal line and narrow down. . .
Pull into a deeper curve.
Select all top points and zoom out. . . .
Pull the top for 10 years.
Go to the right view, select the point in the middle, and expand outward to make the lower part a little fatter. 11.
Now move the top point and pull the side a little. 12. There! .
It\'s not bad to click a few in the CAD program . . . . . . . .
Why am I doing this?
I want the corner at the top to pull in because I\'m going to put some eyelets in those corners.
Then I will screw the key chain into the hole.
This will give me a big ring in the top right corner of each.
Then all I need to do is after I cut the chain to the length I want, twist at the end of the silver chain of each ring, about 14 \"or so.
Parts: 1 base purse2 per printed key ring-silver4 or more silver eyelets.
14 \"or more silver chains . . . . . . It needs to be strong enough to be used as a wallet handle . . . . . . .
You can double here if you need. Assembly:1.
Export to stl file. 2.
The slices are as follows: 3.
Circumference = 24.
Solid Layer = 35.
Layer height = nozzle diameter . . . . . 25mm for me6. 0% fill…. .
We\'re going to print this hollow.
The printer will try to print \"top\" but you need to stop printing when it starts printing \"top.
Of course, we just want to open the top. 7.
Print on the PCB at 250C and make sure the first layer is close to the print table. 8.
Slice printing. . . .
It will take a while. maybe 2 -
3 hours depending on your printer speed. 9.
After printing and cutting off any loose threads, poke a hole with a soldering iron as shown in the figure. 10.
Add all four eyelets to all four corners. 11.
Screw in the ring on each set of holes on each side. 12.
Screw the silver chain on one side and the silver chain on the other side, that\'s it!
Well, in the last photo, I went to the game with a bunch of friends.
You can see the bracelet and wallet and I also wear one of my belt.
It\'s just a basic design, but I think you can see that you can create various types of designs by increasing your fashion imagination.
I am now designing a wallet with slots and pockets.
I want to find a way to print a color on other colors, such as printing a blue initials on a white wallet.
Or print a different color pattern on a solid color wallet or clutch.
The important thing for me is that it is definitely a high quality pure nylon and it doesn\'t feel like plastic at all!
The 3D printed nylon I use is listed online: This instructions interest people and then I will add a note about the color.
I want to say thank you to Mike (
Fix my printer after the storm)
Answer all my questions as a tester and designer.
Conscience woman, with my own design concept, can convert my design into real objects through simple 3D printing, this temptation can not be ignored.
So with the help of my college friends, I purchased and built a 3D printer kit.
It seems to be forever before I print something, and at the same time my friend reassured me that I can print \"anything\" I\'m not very happy.
I don\'t want gears, bots or toys.
I want fashion accessories!
Not just any accessories, I hope I can design and print and really use the feeling of high quality.
Maybe it will be sold one day! !
After trying several different plastics, I still find that nothing I print can be bent remotely, and I conclude that 3D printing does not apply at all to anything I imagine.
So the 3d printer did it behind the closet.
Long story short, a friend sent me a link and they printed a video with nylon.
It\'s like any other 3D printed video you see, except that at the end you\'ll see a nylon part that\'s easy to twist and bend.
I \'d love to give it a try.
He sent me my first 3D printed nylon sample and included me in his test program as a designer and nylon tester.
That was three months ago.
I have been printing wallets, clutch, belts, wallets, rings, bracelets, compact boxes, earrings, necklaces, you name it accessories because this stuff is very durable, i\'m thinking about the holy grail of accessories, shoes!
But I\'m not a good designer. yet.
Oh, did I mention that you can print out the flat plates on 2 or 3 floors and then iron them with an iron to form permanent seams and folds?
So since this 3D printing nylon is very new, I think there may be other people who want to print accessories or smooth, glossy and soft items that I want to show how to create some simple items, and how to print em in 3D.
I would like to explain the picture I uploaded as there are a lot of CAD screen photos.
I do this because some people may think it\'s hard to use 3D CAD, but that\'s not the case.
I only measure the time I absolutely have to measure and everything else is based on the guess of \"if it looks good, it looks good, I like it.
As a hint, there are three CAD commands for our quick designers only, allowing us to do anything. 1.
Boolean value-this is a fancy term for adding two parts to one part or subtracting one from the other. 2.
Fillet-another fancy term for placing soft rounded edges on a part. 3.
Cage Edit-another fancy term, but it\'s great.
Just like your basic part is made of jelly.
You just have to push or pull a point and the area around the point will follow. . . . like…jello!
This is what I use most because it allows me to push and pull the curve in the design and I undo it if I don\'t like it and try again.
After playing the cage command for an hour, I put it down and now I am very good at adding beautiful curves and processes to my design.
You\'ll notice that I designed it by adding a known section like a round hook (cylinder)
This is equal to lip gloss, and then I add and subtract other nails (cylinders), donuts (torus)
And square to make the part I want.
That\'s why I have CAD photos so others can see how easy it is.
Short instructions for 3D printing. 1.
Design parts in 3D CAD programs.
The part is then exported to the file as a \"part. stl”2.
Slice part of you-this is a separate applet or comes with your 3D printer. (
This is where you tell the 3D printer how to make the parts.
Number of dense, hollow, normal and exterior walls.
You can make your part just around or round or thick and you can add fill.
How sturdy the filling part is.
High filling means a lot of nylon is printed inside the part, so it won\'t be that soft or bent.
Some of the parts you do are hollow, like my wallet. )Load the “Part.
In the slicer program, it will output a file called \"Part.
Gcode \"or something like that (
Please see printer instructions). 3. The “Part.
Gcode \"is a file used by a 3D printer to make parts. 4.
Don\'t worry about all the technical issues.
The printer has sensors to prevent you from breaking it, so it becomes easier each time just keep trying.
I have done it hundreds of times now and I have done it for about 2 minutes.
It\'s really easier than it sounds.
Every part of my structure shows a complete attachment.
I will show you how I designed the lip gloss case, the compact replacement case, the simple ring, the bracelet, the simple credit card DL and the money bag, a fully available and soft belt, the last \"KD\" design is a shiny, silver-decorated soft wallet.
All the tools we need: 1 each 3D CAD program-free and low cost online, ask some technical friends.
I have the college student version I use.
Taul says Google has free Sketchup and free Sketchup in Autocad \"123D\" so check it out.
Each 3D printer can print 3mm round nylon 2 618 nylon per thread shaft from taulman3d.
Com-this is what I tested and used and it costs the same as normal 3D printing plastic. It is a natural color and there is actually no color but it looks when you print with it
You can see this in my photo.
1 soldering iron for every 20 to 40 watts with sharp \"clean\" tip1, each hobby knife to cut off loose thread 1 \"type 12\" per metal ruler-this measuring tool.
I am using a calipers I bought on ebay, they are not expensive and easy to measure.
You can use the meter ruler, but it will be more difficult to measure some items.
1 each flat metal surface-like the back of the cookie flakes 1 each eyelet curling tool-these are Hobby Shop 1 each small screw drive 1 each needle thread 1 each scissors 1 each gorilla.
You need a sticky glue.
A lot of glue will not stick to nylon.
Design of lip gloss shell. 1.
Find or buy lip gloss that you want to use.
Measure the diameter of lip gloss-the mine is 17 mm³.
Add a thread in 17mm = 17.
The 5mm thread is the nozzle size of the 3D printer. Mine is .
5mm-this is to make sure it prints out a larger opening for lip gloss. I add .
All openings and holes are 5mm. 4.
The gloss of the lips looks very high (
Estimated measurements are inserted here)…5. Make 17. Peg-6 High 5mm.
Make the round nails a little bigger, but a little shorter . . . . . . Looks like 24mm diameter . . . . . . Not too big. . 7.
Push the small bolt up and give the tube a bottom . . . . . .
Nothing. it just looks good. 8.
You need some shape so add round ribs.
Select Add face (
Donuts for the rest of us)
\"Make it a little bigger than the tube . . . . . . . . 10.
Copy and paste more . . . . . . Eye spacing . . . . . . 11.
Now . . . . . . Boolean \"add\" external peg and toruses . . . . . . So this is part of it.
Now, for the hole where the gloss disappears . . . . . . 13.
With Big peg. . . The boolean difference of 14 is small peg. Looky there….
Like I planned . . . . . . Export stl to thumb drive 15.
Now slice for 3D printer . . . . . . 16.
I hope it will shine.
So I dropped the temperature to 245. . . 17.
Set the layer height to bout. 3mm…. 18.
A perimeter and two physical layers . . . . . . ! 19. Slice to g-code file …20.
Set to print on PCB material (
Printed circuit boards with lots of small holes keep printing high or large parts flat-I bought mine in the Radio shed for about $3)21.
Load the gcode into the printer. And print …22.
After printing, carefully remove any loose nylon thread and trim it. 23.
Insert lip gloss . . . .
If it slips in easily, just wrap a little tape around it.
Use transparent gift tape as dark tape will show up.
Look at it now.
In less than 20 simple steps, we created a very simple \"off-the-top-of-our-
Head \"the idea of a beautiful part that really works.
Nylon feels much better than the plastic already on the lip gloss.
It really gets easier every time you design and print something.
I have done a lot of printing now, I don\'t pay attention to technology, only my design concept. Next….
A compact new part: old compact part with glass mirror
Some are easy to take apart, these are the best. Directions:1.
Use a small screwdriver to gently remove the color or powder tray from the compact.
These are usually made of cheap glue.
Take a moment to turn around the entire edge . . . . . .
When you pry a part up, slide the screwdriver to the center and pry it up from the center.
So you don\'t bend the tray. 2.
The mirror is now.
Now that the powder tray has come out, set the tap very warm and place the compact tap under the flowing warm water for about a minute . . . . . . . 3.
Try turning the mirror with your fingers.
It should also be fixed with cheap glue and should start spinning under hot water . . . . . . . 4.
When it starts spinning. . . .
Just keep it and try to pry it up with a hairpin or a thin plastic comb when it feels looser.
A screwdriver may break the mirror so don\'t use it. 5.
Measure the diameter of the mirror and powder tray.
58mm we call it 60. go to cad6.
I set the powder tray to round peg 60mm dia and make it above the height I need. 7.
I made a slightly larger round nail (
Okay, happy? ). 8.
This is my powder tray so I made about 6-7mm tall…. looks good! 9.
I put 60mm of the DingTalk in and gave myself a reserve price of 1mm. 10.
Then Boolean 60mm from the larger peg. .
The bottom of Clk is done! …. 11.
The diameter of the mirror is also 60mm.
The compact top will surround the bottom. 12.
The bottom is 68mm diameter.
So do a peg 68.
Diameter 5mm, about 20mm.
The mirror will be on top of the lid . . . . . . So make another 60mm and 20mm peg 14.
The lid will be a larger diameter to cover the powder tray . . . . . . So do a 73-
74mm dia peg, but to reach the height we need to achieve overall compact . . . . . . .
About 11mm.
We got 74mm, 68.
5mm and 60mm nails. . . 16.
Give 60mm space to 1mm at 74mm peg17.
From 60mm . . . . . . Boolean minus 74mm in clk and done18. Move the 68.
5mm give the mirror 1mm clearance from the powder tray, Boolean minus 68.
The distance is 5mm from the larger part. . Clk, clk, finished. . . . 19.
Now we have the top but it looks like a can of soup.
We need a soft edge! 20.
There is a \"fillet\" command in most 3D CAD programs . . . . . . .
It goes around the edges and gives a smooth look that will print into a smooth feel. 21.
Select \"fillet \". . . .
2mm on fillet size. 22.
Select the top edge and bypass it . . . . . . . . clk…. done…. . looks great….
Almost professional.
Almost . . . . . . Nylon gloss will finish it well. 23.
Now, don\'t forget to flip the top before exporting so it can print upside down!
Otherwise it will be a mess. 24. Export to stl. 25.
The slices are: 26. 1 perimeter27.
2 solid surfaces. 28.
We only need 25% filling. 29.
235C printing temperature. . . .
We need to shine . . . . . . 30
Print on the blue tape to get a soft and smooth top and bottom. 31.
I don\'t use retracement . . . . . . . .
It seems to take a few days to print anything with it. -
Shrinkage is a way to prevent the printer from leaving tiny excess threads in certain places.
With this nylon I found it only takes a second or two to cut them off with a hobby knife.
I think it looks better than taking it back. 32. Hit print! 33.
Carefully remove any loose threads from the print table. 34.
Add a small amount of glue to the mirror and powder tray and glue them in place.
Let\'s set it up for a few hours and you\'re done!
Adhesive Nylon: they told me that nylon wouldn\'t glue well and I found them right.
So when I glue it, I use a piece of sandpaper or an old nail buffer to make the glue point rough.
I found Gorilla Glue OK but you need something very sticky.
If I really need these parts, I will melt them together with a soldering iron.
Next is a simple ring. I have printed a few rings in plain plastic before, but after I wash my hands a few times, they all look dull.
I found this to be alcohol from the hand sanitizer we used in the bathroom.
Nylon is not affected by alcohol or a large amount of chemicals.
Start with a normal ring or short tube. Now….
This is a tip for K. D.
Let your 3D printer print it out.
It doesn\'t mean it can\'t do some tricks.
So, I\'m going to print a normal ring and then print a tiny captured silver ring by pressing the button that lets the 3D printer nozzle spit out hot nylon.
New parts: 1 nylon 3D printed ring each.
1 small silver ring each.
You may be able to find one on an old piece of jewelry and remove it with pliers.
Something about the diameter of the pencil eraser should be good. Directions:1.
Print a standard ringplain. 2.
Make the perimeter 10 so it can be printed in all circles for smoothing. 3. Set height to .
2mm for many solid layers. 4.
Set the temperature to 245c, shiny and strong. .
It only needs to be installed comfortably. 5.
3D printing the height you want . . . . . . I will print this about 6mm high and stop the printer. 6.
Next, lower the print table or raise the nozzle to give you space under the nozzle . . . . . . . about 5 inches. 7.
On my prusa I have a button that allows nylon or plastic to bleed out of the nozzle.
Kind of like toothpaste.
Push it and let nylon flow out of the nozzle for a few seconds. 8.
Set the silver ring on the ring as shown in the figure . . . . . . .
You have to hold this with a needle clamp because you will definitely burn yourself if you are not careful. 9.
Gently guide the ring with the ring to the tip of the nozzle and let the tip of the nozzle touch the nylon inside the ring.
The hot end begins to melt nylon. 10.
Press the button to remove more nylon from the nozzle while keeping the ring stable. 11.
When the new nylon flows out, it fills the ring and starts to overflow. 12.
Let the new nylon overflow the ring of about the same thickness, then slowly remove the ring. 13.
The new nylon can now make a shape (
I don\'t know what you call it)
This will keep the ring. 14.
Cut any thin line with a hobby knife, you . . . . . . done. . ! 15.
Flatten the edges with a hobby knife. . (
I haven\'t done this yet for the photo of this ring, so you can see the sharp edges. )
It looks stylish from the other side of the room.
The most important. . .
It matches the lip gloss shell and is compact in structure.
Please be very careful because the nozzle is super hot.
I always \"first\" put my finger on the nozzle flow button and move on my ring, because I don\'t want to move my eyes off the ring while holding something to find the button close to the hot nozzle.
Don\'t find the hard way!
You must read and follow all 3D printer and material security information.
I\'m not responsible if you hurt yourself.
The hot nozzle is twice the temperature of boiling water, so it will hurt you if you touch it.
Also I have long hair and should hang it around the printer moving parts.
The hole size of the bracelet is easy. . .
Just find the bracelet you already have and measure the size of the hole.
I know my size is 64mm.
So whatever we dream of, this is what we need.
We will make a tube or strap with a diameter of 64mm, so that the diameter of the outside is about 72mm, and then make it about 6mm high.
We will decorate it with some silver key chain rings and then we can add keys for the effect or small chain.
Hobby stores have a lot of items to add, so anything is possible from this starting point.
Parts: 6 silver rings or more on key rings . . . . . .
You have to put the key on the split type above it.
(Design a simple thick belt.
I am a 64mm person so I will make a 72mm hook to make it 6mm high. 1.
Now, I made a 64mm hook to make it 20mm high.
Put it in a larger peg and the Boolean value minus 64mm from 72mm, where I have a thick strap. 2.
Now we have to print 3 em. . 3. Export to stl…. 4.
Import the slicer program 5.
We want these skids to be as much as possible. . . 8 Perimeters….
This will make it all circles7.
0 solid layers 8. 0% fill….
This will make it all circles9. . 2mm height10. 245C11.
Print on blue tape and smooth surface. -
Blue tape is the blue painter tape you use when drawing around the doors and windows of the house.
The part you print will stick to the wax backing of the tape.
I just put a few on my PC board.
It falls off easily. 12.
Assembly-just twist on the key ring to capture the strap as shown.
A trick I used to pry open these keys --
The ring is defaced with staple food. (
Read this article online not long ago)13.
Add more jewelry. . .
Add some silver keys!
I don\'t mix colors with other keys.
Again, it matches our other accessories.
Simple credit card and DL holder tools: 1 for each scissors, 1 for each soldering iron, 1 for each metal rule, and 1 for each biscuit drawing direction: 1.
Print attachment stl. . .
It is part of 120mm x 100mm. 2.
Let it print 2 layers and stop printing.
It\'s about 8 layers so I can use it for other things. 3.
Most of the CC is 54mm by 86mm, so we will increase the width by 18mm on the thickness of several cards. 4.
Cut a piece of 104mm by 72 mm5.
Cut a piece of 72mm x 70 MM6.
As shown in the figure, place 2 pieces on top of each other. 7.
Use a steel ruler to set about 2mm of the space along the first long edge. 8.
Use a soldering iron to cut a 2mm line along the edge. 9.
Not only does this cut the edges, but it is also hot to seal the edges as permanent seams without tearing or separating.
I adjusted the soldering iron to about 80%.
You need to take your time and make sure the tip is in touch with the metal.
Sometimes the hot nylon leaves a small edge, so you can cut it off with a hobby knife.
Also, I don\'t know why, but there is always a dark coating on the tip, so carry a thick rag with you to wipe the tip.
You should wet the rag first. 10.
Repeat on the opposite long side. . . .
Then repeat along the bottom. That’s it.
Simple but working fine.
The first nylon belt I printed was better than I thought . . . . . . .
Very soft, but tough, thread with no wear or split.
I can easily make it a knot, but it doesn\'t stretch out at all . . . . . . Just give it some \"gifts\" is enough . . . . . . .
I did at least 12 or more.
Since I can simply die them in the exact color I need, I don\'t even have to go and buy one to match my outfit . . . . . . . .
I just bought some molds and 3D prints . . . . . . To save some money?
In hobby shops, the belt buckles of different sizes are about $1.
Almost free.
The price of nylon is the same as ABS and I can get at least 14 belts from the nylon thread shaft.
So, I\'m about 27 \"waist but wear 30 \"-32” belt.
A buckle and a nice outline tip increase by about 6 \", we are at 38\" or 970mm. So.
. . . . . . How can I print something so long on my prusa with a small print table. . ? …. A trick….
I print into a spiral on the edge of it . . . . . . !
Then, in order to level it off the spiral, I just leveled it!
Even taorman didn\'t know that ironing printed nylon was a trick!
Actually, I print two at a time. Here’s how. For a 1.
5 \"wide belt, not the surface of the 38\" long thin belt.
Think of a firm stick.
5 \"wide 38\" long \"deep \".
However, think of it as hollow and you will see that you use both sides of the stick as a strap and wrap it in a spiral shape.
We will print it out with a solid surface.
When it prints a layer every 38 \"long, the solid surface helps to keep it on the PCB printing table.
I won\'t let the print go to the end and print it out on all sides.
I stopped it before it printed the fourth (top)
Or when it reaches the width I want.
Then I remove the nylon and look like \"U\" shape from the end.
I then cut off the solid layer and left two 1000mm \"x1.
I\'m going to make it into a strap. . !
Then I just opened a hospital.
Iron a few times on it and flatten the spiral out.
Look at my belt standard CAD drawings.
This is a spiral about 1000mm long and 100mm high.
This is what I exported as an stl file.
Parts: 1 CAD file per (see attached)
One silver buckle each.
I bought these at the local hobby store or cut one off the old belt.
12 or more silver eyelets.
Note: Make sure how wide you want the belt to be as you want to stop printing before it gets wider to save time.
Make sure you have at least 20 feet nylon so you don\'t run out.
The Belt needs a lot of material according to the thickness. 1.
Export the stl file of the slicer program.
The slices are as follows: 3. 2 perimeters….
This is a belt 1mm thick.
It\'s right for me. 4.
1 Solid surface. . . .
This is just to keep the spiral in place when printing . . . . . . Because it is too long, it will shrink when it cools during printing, so print on the PCB to make sure that the first layer is almost touching the table.
I find that if my belt prints 12 layers or more without bending from the PCB table, then it prints normally. 5.
The fill amount of 0%, because it will be empty. height….
You need to be careful with this . . . . . . .
It takes a day to print. .
There may be small gaps as large as a few layers.
I use my nozzle diameter or. 25mm7. Temperature….
The printer will constantly spit out nylon because the incoming nylon will cool the heater, so we need to raise the temperature a little, even when it glows . . . . . . So 255-
It sounds too hot, but the nylon is wearing too fast and I don\'t think it\'s actually that hot. (
I\'m not optimistic about this, it seems like this from my experience). . 8.
Load to a 3D printer and \"print \". . . . . . This will take about 2-
Print for 3 hours.
It takes about 2 hours for my belt 1 to print. 9.
After printing, remove the spiral from the print table. 10.
Take the scissors and simply cut off the first layer.
It\'s very easy to follow the spine in the print layer to help you get straight cuts. 11.
Cut the end. 12.
Now you should have two long straps, each of which can be turned into one.
You should iron the spiral before adding the eyelet. 13.
Now is the time to buckle.
Measure about 80mm from one end. 14.
Use a soldering iron to poke a hole for the first hole eye. 15.
Curl in silver eyelets using the eyelet curl tool.
This is the hole eye of the needle. 16.
Keep in mind that the eyelet \"curl\" side is always inside the belt. 17.
Put the strap into the buckle and stick the buckle pin to the hole.
You can now fold back the remaining nylon. 18.
Keep the folds in place and poke two holes for the first fixed hole eye. 19.
The first two fixed holes are installed.
Measuring about 12mm, two more fixed holes are installed. 20.
These four eyelets will keep the buckle away from anywhere! 21.
Now wrap your belt around your bare waist and don\'t relax.
Where the tip overlaps the needle is the first central eyelet.
Mark and install (
Poke with a soldering iron, then curl with a silver hole). 22.
Now, at 24mm steps, make 8 marks in the direction of the belt tip.
Install All Eight eyelets. 23.
Put on your final gear.
Then Wear your belt and tighten it according to your taste.
You should still have two, three or more eyelets.
You want more than 2 holes in the needle to face the tip. 24.
Cut the tip flat, leaving two long eyelets.
Round the tip with scissors. 25. See !
You just made a $25 or more belt and it looks and feels great! 26.
Dye it if you want the color.
Go to taulman3d.
View the color direction.
If you do want the color, you should dye it before adding the eyelet and the clasp.
You should also iron it before you color it.
Also, it may stretch the width slightly over time.
Flatten it and iron it again.
Since I printed it in a 1mm thick place, it is not too hard yet, not too soft and it will drooping or stretching.
I also made long wallet straps with this painting.
Wallet Design simple wallet looks like a rectangular box with some soft curves.
So how do I add soft curves to the rectangular box? . ?
As I mentioned earlier, these 3D CAD programs have some really neat features and the ones I absolutely love are called \"cage editing \".
It\'s like your character is made of jelly.
You just have to push or pull a point and the area around this point will follow all the time.
The only rule you have to pay attention to is that you \"should\" only push and pull in the X or Y direction, because you will print the results in 3D.
You can modify the Z, but this makes the result of 3D printing very painful.
Or it\'s actually a mess. (
Just my experience)Simple design: 1.
I will make it 200mm long, 70mm wide and 110mm high . . . . . .
Small, but not small.
Make a rectangular box3.
Now add fish fillets to the high corners. 4. Now…. . cage edit….
Select the part, then select cage edit from the menu . . . . . . 5.
I only know how my CAD program works, but Mike and taul tell me that most other CAD programs can do the same . . . . . . . 6.
Pay attention to the control points around my smooth rectangle.
I can choose one or more, just push them over or stretch them and the wallet gets bigger or smaller in those places. 8.
Select the internal line and narrow down. . .
Pull into a deeper curve.
Select all top points and zoom out. . . .
Pull the top for 10 years.
Go to the right view, select the point in the middle, and expand outward to make the lower part a little fatter. 11.
Now move the top point and pull the side a little. 12. There! .
It\'s not bad to click a few in the CAD program . . . . . . . .
Why am I doing this?
I want the corner at the top to pull in because I\'m going to put some eyelets in those corners.
Then I will screw the key chain into the hole.
This will give me a big ring in the top right corner of each.
Then all I need to do is after I cut the chain to the length I want, twist at the end of the silver chain of each ring, about 14 \"or so.
Parts: 1 base purse2 per printed key ring-silver4 or more silver eyelets.
14 \"or more silver chains . . . . . . It needs to be strong enough to be used as a wallet handle . . . . . . .
You can double here if you need. Assembly:1.
Export to stl file. 2.
The slices are as follows: 3.
Circumference = 24.
Solid Layer = 35.
Layer height = nozzle diameter . . . . . 25mm for me6. 0% fill…. .
We\'re going to print this hollow.
The printer will try to print \"top\" but you need to stop printing when it starts printing \"top.
Of course, we just want to open the top. 7.
Print on the PCB at 250C and make sure the first layer is close to the print table. 8.
Slice printing. . . .
It will take a while. maybe 2 -
3 hours depending on your printer speed. 9.
After printing and cutting off any loose threads, poke a hole with a soldering iron as shown in the figure. 10.
Add all four eyelets to all four corners. 11.
Screw in the ring on each set of holes on each side. 12.
Screw the silver chain on one side and the silver chain on the other side, that\'s it!
Well, in the last photo, I went to the game with a bunch of friends.
You can see the bracelet and wallet and I also wear one of my belt.
It\'s just a basic design, but I think you can see that you can create various types of designs by increasing your fashion imagination.
I am now designing a wallet with slots and pockets.
I want to find a way to print a color on other colors, such as printing a blue initials on a white wallet.
Or print a different color pattern on a solid color wallet or clutch.
The important thing for me is that it is definitely a high quality pure nylon and it doesn\'t feel like plastic at all!
The 3D printed nylon I use is listed online: This instructions interest people and then I will add a note about the color.
I want to say thank you to Mike (
Fix my printer after the storm)
Answer all my questions as a tester and designer.
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