how to make a tote bag
This particular change is a fairly heavy one, so feel free to adjust if you don\'t need a change that carries such a heavy load.
You need :-Sewing machine.
Walking foot machine is a good choice in any tech store, but any machine is OK. -
Canvas or similar fabric.
The canvas is cheap and strong, so this is my choice.
My bottom is made of waxed canvas, which is waterproof and very sturdy, but when we get to the bridge we will wear the bridge. -
The straps, enough to climb on both sides, can at least make the handle.
You can multiply the height of your bag by 4 and add 2-
4 ft depends on how big the handle you want, if you want to wrap the strap under the bag all the time (
This is a very basic project, so I will give myself an hour and a half to two hours. Here we go! !
The first step is to determine the size of your tote bag.
In this example, I made a 12 th high 12 with a width of 10 inch deep.
We start with the size so we know how much fabric we need.
For this bag, I actually grabbed an abandoned piece of canvas and let my fabric decide the size of my bag, but in any case we need to sort out the dimensions before we start making anything.
OK, so to know our size, we can lay out and cut the fabric.
The tote bag will be made by folding a large piece in half and stitching both sides (
Looks like it will be on both sides of your bag)
And then the bottom.
We will probably leave.
1/2 per side, seam allowance 2 inch, top to make a nice 1.
Turn under the Clean hem.
We need a piece of fabric long enough to make both sides of the bag and wrap it at the bottom.
So for my bag I need: 2x (
High 2 sides in hem allowance 13)
= 2x15 = 30 in.
Bottom width 10 = 40 inch long.
Note: You can use a continuous part, or sew the two parts together with a seam in the middle of the bottom of your bag.
I sewed two pieces because I reinforced the bottom so the seams don\'t show up outside.
Your fabric needs to be wide enough to hold the width of the bag and the depth of the side (
Half each side)
Plus a seam allowance of 1/2 per edge.
Again, for my bag: 12 that are 1/2 wide seems to be allowance for 10 and 1/2 deep seems allowance = 12 10 1 = 23 inch widescreen, we need a piece of 40 inch long, fabric 23 inch long. You want to cut the length of the fabric along the selvage of your fabric (long wise)
In most fabrics, there is too much stretch from the side to the side, and if you cut it into width, the bag will remain in shape when handling heavy objects.
OK, now that we know how much fabric we need, it\'s time to spread it out and cut it out.
Fold the fabric in half so you have a large rectangle in front of you. -
Arrange the size of your bag in the middle, leave half the depth on each side and bottom, and leave 2 inch of the seam allowance on the top. -
By cutting up, cut the bottom corners of each side into half the depth of the bag. (i. e.
: My bag is 10 deep, so I cut 5 inch squares from the corner. (
In fact, there are 5 1/2 on the side, allowing the seam allowance to be 1/2)-
At this time, I like to put my reinforced fabric.
Figure out how high you want it to be and go a long way above the gap you cut at the bottom.
Leave half an inch of space to fold and form a clean edge.
Fold the fabric in half and slot in the corner to match the main fabric.
So, before we tie the straps or sew this thing up, we tidy up the edges on the top.
You can do that as a final step, but if we do it now, it will be much easier to do it well so that we can lay it flat and make it easy. -
Turn down 1 inch of each top edge, then press it with an iron, or fold it with a nail. -
Turn 1 inch down again to create a double thick, Clean Edge hem. -
Use direct sales will be in place.
If you take them perpendicular to the edges, you can sew them on top of them without worrying about removing them as you go. -
Stitch along the bottom edge of the hem on both sides.
I like to keep my strap under the bag all the time to make it stronger and give it the ability to carry heavy objects.
If you don\'t bring something overweight, you can choose not to, and you will stop where the reinforcement fabric stops instead of wrapping it under. -
This is a good place to play.
You can make leather handles and make them extra long (
Or just play with straps of different sizes and types.
I used very heavy nylon straps for this bag because, well, I sat 100 yards in the house. -
When your fabric is laid on the table like before we wrap it around the top, start with the strap hanging on the bottom.
This creates overlap when we wrap it at the bottom of the bag. -
Now run the strap up the surface of the bag, create a loop handle on any side you want, and then run the strap down. -
Now, we \'ve laid the straps for one side, marked the end of it, and doubled the total length so it can match on the other side. -
When you cut the straps, if you don\'t have a heat knife, melt the edges with a lighter so it doesn\'t wear out.
It doesn\'t show up, so it doesn\'t matter, but it\'s a good practice. -
Re-place the straps on the bag and fix them well, flip the fabric and fix the other side, make sure to align and pay special attention to the length of the handle so they are the same. -
Take it to the sewing machine, put the whole bag flat, sew the strap on it and stop at the hem on both sides so that the handle can move freely.
You can skip this step if you want, but it makes the tote look better and lasts longer. -
Put your cut fabric on top of the straps and the main fabric. -
Fold more than 1/2, press or crease. -
Nail this edge on the main body of the handbag. -
Stitch along the folded edge of the reinforced fabric.
That\'s it. now we are ready to put the bag away, only two (sorta three)steps left.
Sew the bag well and make an actual bag. The first step is to sew the side seam well.
In my handbag I was lucky enough to be able to reach a reel machine to finish my edge and you can use a saw stitch if you don\'t have permission, or trim one side of all ownce to 1/8.
After sewing, fold 1/2 in.
Edge past, create a clean seam and stitch again.
Really, you can skip it, but you will continue to pop up random threads.
The 1/2 in the seam allowance is enough that it should not break up, or at least not for a period of time. -
Fold the fabric inside so the straps and reinforcement layer are inside. -
Sew the side seam on the cut we cut before.
OK, here we are, the last deer, until now, the bag has been laid flat and basically folded in half.
How will we smooth the bag at the gap we cut, making the square gap the edge, top and bottom. -
At the gap in the corner, flatten the bag so it has the volume.
When you do this, the gap suddenly turns into two edges and the side of the bag meets the bottom. -
Nail these edges together and align everything as much as possible. -
Sew the edges together, leaving about 1/2 more. seam allowance.
If this edge is not well arranged, sew 1/2 from the shorter edge and trim.
If you want to make this seam more tough, fold at the seam and sew again to reinforce it.
As you can see in the photo, instead of folding, I tilted my edges for a more complete look. -
Turn the package to the right and then. . . . . VOILA! !