Vintage Leather Briefcase/satchel
My name is Era and I have made leather products for 6 years.
I like it very much. I like to make patterns.
I even opened an online shop with leather patterns.
This is my tutorial on making a briefcase/satchel that looks old and retro.
The inner dimensions of the housing are approximately 42 cm x 31 cm x 12 cm.
It\'s great for artists, graphic/digital designers, students with lots of books and stuff, and it can hold almost anything you need to carry every day.
When you want to carry all the necessary things with you on a train or plane, it is also good for traveling.
It is large and very spacious and I call it \"brieftchel \".
I love the classic British satchels and I want to make one myself but I also want it to be a briefcase --like.
So I put the two together and call it \"brieftchel \".
It has a basic structure of satchel, a major department for laptops, books, light boxes, organizers, and maybe even a lunch box if you want to put it in.
The detachable shoulder/oblique Velcro strap can reduce the weight of your hand.
The smaller front pocket is still spacious enough for tablets, pencils, brushes, sandwiches or anything else.
This is a big pocket.
The closure is a strap with two buckles, and there are actually magnetic buttons underneath.
This is for easier opening, so you don\'t need to interfere with the buckle every time.
If you need to put some files or files there, I also added a large flat pocket to the back panel.
It has a snap button, but you can plug the closure tape into your pocket if you don\'t want to use it.
The space inside is very large and you can use it on any organizer inserts that are so popular now.
I reinforced the bottom of the corner brace with an extra layer of leather and installed 8 brass feet to protect the leather and make the bag more stable.
The handle is rather \"heavy\" and it is attached to the flap, which is also reinforced by durability.
This is a big case that is very heavy when full, so I decided not to add any lining to it, just not to make the whole thing heavier.
If I\'m going to line up, I\'ll use the pigskin and stick it to all parts of the box before stitching.
When it was empty, the weight of this brieftchel was a little over 2 kg.
I spent a lot of time designing this briefcase and I made all the cutting and tooling patterns from scratch myself.
The tools are of course optional and you may just want to make a simple and durable thing with factory dyed leather.
I love the \"old and used\" distressed look on the leather, and I use it a lot when making a card box.
You don\'t have to like it because it looks specific, but I added detailed steps if you like-by-
Photo instructions on how to achieve this look.
If you don\'t want any tools, you still have a set of cutting patterns to make situations without it.
I use Photoshop to make the pattern, and then after making the project, I corrected all the errors and errors that may exist, and when the correction is done, I am ready for the full size --to-
A printed pattern that can be made of leather.
I have a lot of ideas about this set, and I believe I have changed and corrected any bugs I have found, but let me know if you see anything you think is wrong and I will fix it.
This is all about the introduction.
I hope you will enjoy doing your briefing as much as I do.
I learned a lot when I was making it, and I\'m sure you will.
Thank you for taking the time to read this and good luck with your project!
You need: Prepare the pattern :~ Open and print PDF files with Adobe Acrobat Reader ~ Print paper and printer.
Standard home printers will do a good job ~ Glue stick or sellotape to assemble the pattern ~ Cut patterns with scissors
Hardware: card buckle, magnetic card buckle, D-5mm ~ Natural leather with dried vegetables 2mm ~
Ring, handle hardware, belt buckle x3, rivets, handbag brass foot x8, swivel hook, basically whatever you intend to use on the case.
There are also double cups of brass rivets and tubular brass rivets.
You can use copper rivets, they are very strong and will hold your bag for the rest of your life, but keep in mind that they will be oxidized.
If this is not the effect you want, replace it with brass rivets.
~ Round punch, oval punch, rectangular punch, cut the pattern from the leather :~ Circular AWL for tracking patterns on leather ~ Any other suitable and sharp knife for round knife or tool knife or leather ~ Cutting Board ~ With a knife (
Or 1-meter cut long shoulder strap)
~ PunchTo tool leather at the end of the strap :~ Leather with water and sponge sleeve.
A piece of wool can be used instead of a sponge.
~ Stylus tracking tooling pattern ~ Swivel knife ~ Stamping tools (basic set)
~ Mallet ~ Spoon shape ~ Granite slab as the basis for tool dyeing/antique leather :~ Dye resistant leather (
Acrylic finish is OK, I am using RTC finish)
~ Detail brush and medium round brush ~ Antique gel/paste (I am using Eco-
Pink antique gel from saddle tan)
~ Fiebing in the saddle ~ Professional oil dye with acrylic finish (
RTC or Super Shene)
~ Apply wool ~ Leather conditioner (
I\'m using the Obenauf product)
As long as any brand is waterproof and in distress leather :~ Piece of sandpaper (150-180 grid)
Installation hardware :~ Rivet setting device, tubular rivet setting device, Button setting device, mouse (
Heavy is not metal)
Hammer for stitching :~ Sewing needles (
At least 2 but more spare)~ thread (
Waxed polyester 1mm)
~ Splicing Awl (
Diamond shape and sharp)
~ To mark the stitches with an iron or sewing wheel ~ Stitch the pony or clip to fix your project while stitching it to finish the edge :~ Thicker edges ~ A pair of partitions ~ Yellow anth or substitute gum
I used Quik Slik), edge dye (
Spirit one, I used the walnut color pro oil dye from Fiebing)~ Edge smoothing (
I will do it. I use Tandy\'s normal wood)
Glue for leather: cement or water-based welding for leather process, sellotape 50-
The first is 60mm things.
Whatever you do, you need patterns.
At the end of this step, there is a file \"old vintage briefcase pattern \".
Click download to your computer.
This is a PDF file, you need Adobe Acrobat Reader, it is free here: open the file and print it out in full.
Select tile large pages in the dialog box so the printer can split the large pages into sections and print them one by one.
You then need to assemble the parts to get the pattern in full size.
Check the Mark box and there will be a small cross on the corner of each page.
You align these crosses and the pieces will match.
See photos for more information.
Now, if you want to make your briefcase smaller (
This is really big)
You need to print on a smaller scale.
Type the desired number in the box (see the photo).
I would say that the 80% will make you a good compact case, but you can choose according to your requirements.
Once you print it out and assemble/glue the pattern that needs to be cropped.
Make sure you have all the parts.
I assemble paper parts with glue sticks, but also with sellotape if you want.
Take a belt knife and cut two long straps 1 \"wide before anything else (2. 5cm).
If you decide to use 1 \"buckle and D-rings.
In this tutorial, the shoulder strap does not have a paper pattern, because it is difficult to track a long piece of paper, and it is more sensible to cut a long strap with a ruler or strap.
Next, place the pattern on the leather, leaving about half an inch between the two pieces.
Use leather wisely at an expensive price.
Track the pattern using a circular scratch cone.
Don\'t scrape too hard, it\'s enough to see the lines.
Pay attention to the things you need to cut twice, such as the buckle, shoulder strap holder, etc.
When cutting pieces, leave some extra leather around the pattern and do not cut along the lines.
It will be easier to color later.
After everything is stale and dyed, we trim off the excess leather.
This is a big part and you can skip this step if you don\'t want any tools but a flat colored leather case.
To achieve this \"old and used\" look, we will only do the basic contour slope edges and then round the edges with a modeling spoon.
If you don\'t like this simplified look, you can find instructions on detailed tools in my other Tutorial: wide sellotape and stick it to the back of the leather (
Very few stripes covering the entire area).
This will prevent the leather from being deformed and stretched during processing.
You may also want to have some kind of weight to help the leather not slip when you are working.
A few pounds (around 1kg)is fine.
You can see mine in the picture
First of all, you need to wrap up the leather.
This means that you need to add enough moisture to the leather, so it provides a good polished color and a good print shape when processed.
Wet the leather with a bowl of clear water and sponge/wool.
Add enough water so that it is almost not absorbed by the leather.
Now place it for about an hour until the leather surface turns light again.
The touch will be cold, which means there is moisture in it.
This is what we need.
Now place a tool paper pattern on the dry and cold leather surface and fix it a little bit with tape (
Better shielding tape).
Carefully track all the lines with a stylus.
Don\'t push too hard, just see the lines under the paper.
If the paper starts to get wet and crumpled, it means the leather is too wet.
When you\'re done, remove the paper with a rotary knife and cut all the lines.
Ideally you need a narrow blade in a small and small place and a wide blade with long lines, but if you only have one blade, it is still very good, you only need more practice to cut various lines with the same blade.
When the lines are cut, use bevelers to follow these lines and tilt them outside.
Put a diagonal edge on the cut outside the line and hit it with a mallet.
Don\'t play too hard. just print it out.
Then move beveler a little along the line and hit again.
Keep moving beveler when you hit it.
Once you go through all the lines, take a styling spoon and smooth all the edges of the design.
You can also use the weakening tool to lift the edges of elements such as leaves and petals.
This is all about tools.
As I said, please refer to my other tutorials if you would like more detailed work (
Use the link above).
To make the tool area look lighter, we need to apply anti-color before any color.
For this purpose, any acrylic finish can be used.
Usually, in classic antiques, you need to apply several layers to resist the drying of each layer.
In our case, we only need one layer because we want some colors to penetrate in.
I\'m using the RTC finish I happen to like, but it doesn\'t matter which one you use, although some are more waterproof and some are less finish.
We will place antique front and packaging panels, front and back pockets, flaps and reinforcement pieces on the flaps.
Basically, everything with tools is out of date.
Shoulder straps, buckles, small pieces of all straps and closures will be dyed.
Apply the finish to the tool elements using the detail brush.
Apply the finish to a larger area around using a larger round brush.
Let it dry, then it\'s time for antiques.
Wear gloves and get some water and paper towels ready.
I\'m using Tandy\'s Eco Flo antique gel, which is my favorite and I \'ve been using it as long as I \'ve been working on leather products.
It is water-based and has no bad smell.
Put some gel on a piece of wool and rub it in circles on the leather surface.
Wipe away the excess with a paper towel.
The gel is quickly absorbed and to wipe it off you may need to get wet paper towels.
Don\'t use too much water, just wipe the gel off.
Let the pieces dry overnight.
Now the corner brace and the little things are dyed.
I used a professional oil dye in the saddle of Fiebing.
It will be darker in color than antiques.
Just take a piece of wool and apply the dye in the circle movement.
Shoulder straps can be applied with wool.
When small pieces are not cut out of the leather until they are completely dyed and finished, they are easier to manage.
It\'s just my preference, not the rules.
When everything is dyed and stale, it dries up overnight.
Then take a clean piece of wool and do everything well.
You don\'t do well enough if you don\'t sweat.
Now use a piece of wool diluted with water and an antique gel to adjust the corner brace and the meat side of the small piece.
Wet the wool and add some antiques.
Applied to the meat side in circle motion. Let it dry.
Now apply acrylic finish on both sides of the gusset and small parts. Let it dry.
Now you need some foam block sandpaper (150-180 grid).
When the leather is all dry, rub it with a circle motion on the texture side.
Wipe it all.
Tooling area, hold (light)
The area where the color is mixed, you want to smooth it, but don\'t overdo it.
You don\'t want a smooth and even tone, like a layer of color is wiped off and another layer of color is exposed from below.
Just like it is really an old, very useful package.
All parts including straps and everything.
Wipe everything well and always do circular motion.
Brush the dust off the leather with a shoe brush.
Then cushion the surface a little with the wool block to restore this gloss.
It\'s time to adjust the leather.
After you have done so much, you want to restore some oil in the leather.
You can use any oil from the leather store and finish it after it has settled and dried, or you can do it my way.
I used the leather preservative of Obenauf (heavy duty).
It consists of oil and wax and is well preserved, condition and sealed leather.
It is waterproof and sometimes I use it as a finish.
If you work in a low temperature room, it is better to warm up the leather surface a little.
I usually use a hairdryer because I don\'t have a heat gun.
Don\'t burn the leather, just heat it up a little.
And then with an old t-
The shirt and conditioner are well processed into leather.
Don\'t at the same time a large number \"with the with better.
When you rub the leather, the oil is absorbed into the leather and the wax seals the surface.
After all the parts, dyed and antique.
Some colors will bleed on the cloth. it doesn\'t matter.
If you think you need another coat
Do it after the first solution.
Then let everything absorb overnight.
Now wipe off the excess with a soft cloth.
Obenauf leaves white residue in the cutting of the tool area, which is wax.
I happen to like it because when the dust of the Times goes into the cutting and groove and settles there forever, it gives a very old and antique feel.
I usually put it there and I\'m happy with how it looks.
You don\'t have to do this if you don\'t like it, just take the toothbrush (
Buy a new cheap one, don\'t use your old toothbrush)
Brush the wax out of the wound.
Everything is fine.
Now you can take down the sellotape on the back of the old part.
Use an antique gel diluted with water to color the sides of the meat.
When dry, cover them with an acrylic coating.
For the handle, I used the Al Stohlman pattern in the \"holster roll. 2\" book.
I corrected my taste a little while I was making it, but I kept the pattern the way it was in case you wanted the Stelman pattern.
I made the cut a little bigger to fit D-ring I used (
I use brass columns)
But you may not want to change it.
This is a taste, I think.
In any case, the mode is included in the PDF file.
First of all, we need to make a filler for the handle.
5 stripes of 3mm thickness are required for each (
Or corresponding 3 stripes 5mm thick).
Stick them together.
Tap it with a mallet to help the glue play its magic.
Make a center line with a pair of partitions.
Now cut the edges on both sides of the center line into cones (see the photos).
Then cut the end diagonally (see the photos).
Tilt the sharp edges and use sandpaper to make the filling smooth (
As much as possible).
Now cut the handle part with leather (
Has been dyed).
Use punch holes or you can cut holes using a craft knife.
I put a white dotted line where I corrected the pattern.
On the Edge (
There is also a white dotted line that shows that the area of skive is larger).
It is more correct than the version in the schema.
Apply Quik Slik to the edge of the round cut out and polish it with a slicer.
Mark the fill position.
Glue on both parts.
Water the meat side with a brush or sponge.
When the glue is sticky, put the pieces together.
Shape the handle well and wrap the leather tightly around the filler.
Tighten it with a pair of Duck mouth pliers and make it into shape.
Fold the ski side through D-
The ring you want.
Fold them inside, stick them to the end of the filler, and apply the glue to the grain side as shown in the figure (see the photos).
Tighten everything with pliers.
Mark the stitch hole with a stitch wheel or a Thorn iron.
You don\'t need to really punch holes and you will use the AWL stitching.
Trim all parts along the marked pattern line.
You have clean edges, otherwise the color will turn black.
Take a pair of scales and measure 3/16 on the ruler.
Mark a line along all edges on all parts except the corner brace.
Use edge beveler to tilt the edge on the grain side of all small parts, straps, all old parts (
Panel, pocket, flap reinforcement section)
Reinforcement of the bottom buckle plate.
Tilt the meat side edges on flaps, back pockets, closed straps, and shoulder straps.
Encircle the corners of the bottom corner support reinforcement part.
You can use a special tool, or something round like a mug, a jar, or a ruler.
There are many different ways to finish the edge.
This is one of them.
We are finishing the edges on the flap and bottom gusset, on the flap, on all small pieces, on the shoulder strap, on all sides of the back pocket, on the top edge of the front pocket, top of two panels (front and back). I\'m using Quik Slik.
Tilt the edges, apply Quik Slik with a wool applicator or edge applicator, let it settle a little bit, and then polish the edges with a wooden slicer or a piece of canvas.
I applied the dyed edge with wool.
Apply each color once.
Put it on the fire and let the wool burn in half, then brush off the black particles with a paper towel and you have a proper tool!
Do it somewhere in the kitchen, open the window and don\'t touch something black with bare fingers, otherwise they will smell forever.
Now dip this glue in the bottle and let some dye fall off and wipe the edges carefully.
Make another coat if needed.
I am using the walnut color in the Pro oil dye of Fiebing.
After use, you will see a groove on the applicator, which is a good thing.
Now, you can use it repeatedly in other projects, and the edges are always perfect.
Use one coat for each color.
Don\'t wash it off, just let it dry and store it until the next time you need it.
A dauber can last for several years (honestly).
Apply edge finish after dye drying.
I like to mix and match some Chinese.
I don\'t know what\'s inside but I bought it on ebay and I like it.
There are a lot of different edge finishes in the leather shop, just Google it.
Now Mark all hardware locations and all holes that need to be punched using paper samples.
Buckle closure belt: the buckle is punched with a rectangular hole punch.
Punch two slots for the magnetic button at the bottom.
Make a small hole between two layers for tubular rivets.
Installation of magnetic buckle (
Top of it)
Pass the strap through the buckle.
Apply the cement to two parts on the meat side.
When it\'s tacky, put the parts together and be careful to align the edges.
Install tubular rivets: Insert the rivets down from the top of the hole, place the gasket at the bottom, and use the tubular rivet fixing device to set the rivets.
Marking of stitching holes.
Bottom gusset reinforcement part: you need to punch/Mark the stitch hole before installing the brass foot.
Mark the position of the foot with a pattern.
Brass feet (
Use some glue on the screws to fix correctly.
Rear pocket closure: use the paper sample to install the snap button on the back pocket and closure belt to mark the position of the snap.
Carefully check the position of the flap with the rear panel and the back pocket to ensure that the snap parts on both pieces are in the correct position.
Front pocket closure: install the bottom of the magnetic button where it is marked on the paper pattern.
Cover the back of the pocket flash side button with self-adhesive felt.
Alternatively, you can stick some leather on it, but it feels good.
Mark all stitch holes where needed.
Don\'t wear them, just mark them.
You will use the Awl when stitching.
Refer to photos as they are very detailed and intuitive.
I use 1mm thick waxed polyester thread.
What I like most is natural color.
I use this thread in 99% of all the projects I made.
It is called the Tiger line, also known as Ritza 25.
For thick leather you need 4 length stitching area plus a few inches of comfort and for thin leather you need 3 length plus a few inches.
This is about the way I measure the stitches.
You need two stitches and a stitch cone.
Put the Needle through, and then pass the needle through the middle of the line a few inches from the end (see the photos).
Pull the needle out.
Do the same with another needle on the other end of the line.
You will have a needle line at each end (see the photos).
Place the handle in a stitched pony or clip (
No matter what you use
And use the awl to punch through the first marked hole.
The Awl is diamond-shaped and it leaves holes in the diamond-shaped shape that match the marked holes.
Around the edge)
Then follow the photo.
Pull the left needle through the hole and pull it out on the right.
When pulling out the needle on the left, pass the needle on the right through the same hole on the left.
Pull out both needles and tie them tightly.
You should have lines of the same length on both sides.
Now pass the AWL through the hole of the next mark and change the needle repeatedly.
The needle on the left goes through the hole on the right and the needle on the right goes through the hole on the left.
Tie the needle tightly.
Continue this way until you stitch the whole area.
Sew two stitches at the edge, and then in the last few stitches you just sew, sew three stitches in the opposite direction (see the photos).
Place the two needles on one side, cut the line short, melt and fix the end with a lighter or wood burning tool.
Mark a 3/16 \"line from the seam line and carefully trim the excess leather.
Tilt the sides, stain the edges, finish and polish them well.
The handle is ready.
Wet the edges of the corner brace using water and brush.
Since the water has been completed, it may take some time to pass.
Using a ruler and folding bones, fold the sides of the corner brace to the side of the grain 1 cm from the edge (
As shown on the paper sample).
In the corner of the box, stretch the leather with your fingers to form a beautiful round corner (
As good as possible).
Place the reinforcing piece and align the piece with the center line mark on the corner brace.
Use a cone to track the reinforcement (
Try to track it down a little inside, away from the edge).
In the area under the firmware, the grain side of the corner support plate is coarse.
Apply the glue on both sides and when the glue is sticky, put them together and align the mark.
Mark the position of the strap holder using paper samples.
Punch the rivet in the place.
Track the leather pieces inside.
Slide the edge on the side that will be inside.
Before glue, the surface is thick. Insert the D-rings.
When the glue is sticky, insert the tubular rivet through the leather from the meat side of the corner support plate, place the strap bracket in the position of the alignment hole and mark (see the photos).
Place the gasket and set the rivets.
Apply the glue to both sides of the strap holder and align them to the edges when the glue is glued together (see the photos).
Stitch the buckle.
Track the closed bands on the flaps, stick them together and stitch them together.
Set a double cup rivet on each of them.
Stitch the reinforcement to the bottom of the corner brace.
Glue the reinforcement part and stitch it to the flap.
Mark the hole the handle will connect.
Attach the handle with screws and glue.
Mark the position of the back pocket on the back panel (
Coarse the leather and apply a line of glue on both pieces.
Put them together and mark the stitch holes.
Sew Your Pocket
Fix the flaps in place with a line (see the photos)
Then track the flap line on the rear panel.
Determine the position of the closed belt.
Remove the threaded piece and stick the flap and back plate together.
Make sure the closed pieces are placed well and correctly.
Stitch the flaps to the rear panel.
Brush some water on the front pocket corner brace where the pocket corner is located.
Shaping with your fingers helps stretch the rounded corners of the leather.
First, you need to glue the edges that will be stitched later.
This will help to hold the pieces together during stitching, especially if the leather parts are heavy and constantly slide out of the place.
When you use the Awl, this will also help to form a straight line on the back of the stitching area.
Otherwise, every time you make a hole, it will be in a different position on the back because the part behind will continue to move.
Glue will also help the edges look better and will not be separated when done (
Dyeing, polishing, etc).
This will also help your stitching to last longer, as the stitching will also loosen over time when the parts are loose.
In two words, always apply glue before stitching anything.
Apply the glue to the folded corner brace edge and pocket edge, and when the glue becomes sticky, place the pieces together from the center mark at the bottom.
Leave some extra leather on the edge of the corner brace for later trimming. 1-2mm will do.
The folded edges are nicely shaped using Folding Bone and pliers.
Make a cut at the end of the pocket edge.
Mark the edge line on the corner brace with a ruler.
Wire cut along.
Smooth the edge of the corner brace before stitching.
Sew the buckle
Trim it with a sharp knife.
Be especially careful not to cut into the edge of your pocket.
Tilt the edge from the corner support side.
Finish the edge.
Stitch the front pocket to the front panel in the same way.
Use pattern tracking to place the line, glue and stitch the corner brace onto the panel.
The way the corner brace is stitched to the front panel is the same as the previous step.
Glue together, leave some excess leather for trimming, cut the top edge of the corner brace along the edge of the panel, stitch together, trim over, tilt from the side of the corner brace, finish the edge
Now stitch the front together with pockets, corner brace and back panel.
Use a circular cone to pass through the first hole so you don\'t cut the thread with the sharp edge of the diamond cone.
Sew two stitches where the flaps and panels are connected.
You don\'t need to stitch the pony at this stage because the box is already too big.
You can put it on your leg.
Fill in the case with wrapping paper or foam packaging.
In this way, it is easier to hold the box when stitching.
The last photo shows the back of the stitching.
Trim the edges, tilt from the side of the corner brace and finish the edges.
The straps are made quickly.
You need two.
The first one is long.
Measure the length you need from D-
D-ring on one side
Call on the other side of the bag.
Measure on the shoulder.
This will be a long part of the strap.
It will be about 130 cm depending on how high the case is by one person.
The short one is about 45 cm.
Trim the ends on two pieces using a belt end punch.
Make two holes at one end of the long piece.
One is 1/2 from the end and the other is 1/2 from the end.
Then make room for 1 1/2 from the second hole, then make the third hole from the third hole, and then make the fourth 1 from the third hole.
Or you can fold the strap where the rotary hook will connect and mark the other set of holes.
Pass the end of the strap through the Rotary hook, place the hook in the middle between the holes, and fix the rivet hook through two layers of leather.
Do the same at one end of the short strap, but hit three holes on each side of the hook, not two.
The spacing between the three holes in each group is 1 \".
Further between the rivets, there will be a belt keeper (see the photos).
The other end of the short strap is buckled.
Make the same four-hole group as in the first case, only the space between the intermediate holes is 2 \"instead of 1 1/2 \".
You need to make a slot for the buckle in that space.
Insert the buckle and fix it with two rivets.
The short straps are ready.
Long holes that need a buckle tongue.
Connect the two straps to the bag with a rotary hook, and connect the end of the long strap to the D-
Ring on the side of the short strap and mark a point on the long watch where the buckle is (
Buckle on the belt).
This will be the reference hole.
Punch holes in two directions from there, with a space of 1/2 in the middle.
Make a few holes in each direction.
Insert the shoulder strap pad as shown. We\'re done.
It\'s not an easy project even for those who have been working on leather for a while, but if you think it\'s big, you can learn a lot from it.
There are a total of 510 photos here and I am trying to paint each step in as much detail as possible.
If I miss something in the list of required tools and materials, forgive me for reading the tutorial before starting to make brieftchel, as you may find that some of the tools mentioned in the process have not started.
The main purpose of this tutorial is to help you master this terrible briefcase.
I am sure that many people who are even experienced in leather products do not dare to try to make a briefcase.
I don\'t do it often.
I put a lot of time and effort into this tutorial to help it, and I hope it will be useful to those who decide to \"do it.
This pattern should be good when I correct it while doing it.
I didn\'t change the Al Stohlman mode for the paper handle in case someone wanted to try \"as is\" but I mentioned the correction in the photo and description.
Tool parts and coloring are very specific and optional of course.
To make a great briefcase or satchel you don\'t need to master the tools.
If you don\'t like the way my \"pain\" and aging leather are made, you can also skip these steps.
You can still make a case with my pattern and instructions for factory dyed leather, which will be faster.
The tool pattern is my original pattern, I draw it from scratch with a pencil and then turn it into a vector in Photoshop.
It took a long time because I had to keep track of each line, but after that it was much easier to use a pattern with clear lines.
Please do not make stamps and stamping plates for sale using tool patterns (
Like some people did to my previous instructures).
You are free to use it to make leather items and sell them in your store, but do not make anything that can be sold and then be used as a tool or material by others.
Please respect my work as I will respect your work.
Good luck with all your projects, not just this one.
Leather work requires patience and determination, but nothing is impossible if there is a will.
Thank you for taking the time to complete all the steps, please ask any questions that you do not understand or make no sense to you.
This is a long tutorial that you can read and I can create for a longer period of time, so I may have missed something or not mentioned something obvious.
Please let me know if you see it and I will do my best to fix it to help you understand.
Thank you very much! Era Shevtsova(Caracoda)